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01/07-01/15/21 A long-overdue driving trip around Oregon. The scenery here is endlessly varied, and the fact that I was never more than a 3.5 hour drive from home makes it surreal at times. I should really get out more. I started with a one night stay in Astoria - at the Astoria Riverwalk Inn. This would be a normal motel, if it weren't for a fact that every room has a marina view and a balcony from which to enjoy it.
And there is an actual river walk, part of which goes over the marina docks, then continues along the river. It's a great morning stroll and makes me feel like I've actually traveled somewhere.
The cruise ship is just parked there, and to me the last picture is symbolic of the times. Then south along the coast, with a brief stop in Seaside.
When I travel I normally exist on Zone bars (used to be Balance but the taste changed over the years so Zone is now the go-to). And since I'm driving rather than flying, I brought several bottles of red wine, a corkscrew, and a virtually indestructible glass that I made when I took a glass-blowing class. This works well with no time or thought wasted on 'refueling'. But when I see an interesting place to grab a bite, I do it just for the experience. This was the case in Seaside, where the outdoor fire pit tables looked interesting. Ended up being a good meal and experience, the first restaurant meal for me in probably 10 months.
Next stop is Cannon Beach. This used to be a favorite place to visit when I first moved to Oregon 22 years ago, but I haven't been here in some time. I booked a beach-access room at the Schooner's Cove Inn. Turned out to be a memorable stay. On arrival the tide was low and I did a couple-mile-long beach walk.
The starfish cling to the rocks exposed by the tide. At night wind picked up and wave noise increased, although could not see anything in pitch darkness. Then the morning revealed a high tide with waves breaking against the hotel retaining wall.
And then a surprise - as I was enjoying my morning coffee and watching the waves, a herd of elk showed up and dashed across the beach right in front of me! A short video here. They timed it pretty well between two sets of waves rolling in. This was so far outside the ordinary routine that I am still smiling every time I think of it. Which is the goal of this trip, to accumulate experiences which I will remember.
Next stop is Newport a ways down the coast, with a few pauses along the way. Like the Tillamook Air Museum. The museum is currently closed due to COVID but there is some cool old stuff around the outside.
And a few other scenic spots.
The waves at Depoe Bay were particularly impressive - comparing them to the hotel on the cliff, the biggest ones had to be over 40' tall.
Finally arrived at the Whaler Motel, a clifftop hotel with ocean view and balcony. A nice place to relax and process the memories created so far.
Having had plenty of coastal experiences I decide to turn inland. The next destination is Belknap Hot Springs. Crossing the coastal range, then the central valley, the views change.
And then I'm in the mountains and forest, with lakes, streams, bridges, and moss-covered trees lining the twisty road. And as the altitude increases I start to see some snow.
Arriving at the hotel, my room has a view of the McKenzie river rushing by and the hotspring swimming pool (one of two on the property). Some wine, a couple Zone bars, and a soak in the hot mineral pool. Ahhhh.....
In the morning I decide to stay here another night and get moved to a different room, this one with a corner view. Even manage to get some work done.
While here I decide to explore a more natural hotspring setting, the Terwilliger spring at Cougar Reservoir. The area had extensive fires this summer and some roads are still closed as they clear the burned trees and debris. Technically the road to the spring was closed, but the flagmen waved me through so on I went, in pouring rain and occasional fog. The area is stunning.
The spring itself is normally manned at the head of the trail and they take the $7 fee while limiting visitors to 15 at a time. There were a few cars in the parking lot but nobody at the booth. I dropped $7 in the slot anyway, to support the place. A short hike through the forest leads to the spring. It has three pools, the hottest and biggest at the top, and two progressively smaller (hot-tub size) and cooler below. There were 6 people in the top pool so I chose the unoccupied second pool instead, finding that if I sit directly under the water flowing down it was warm enough. The other end of the pool not quite so much. Then more people showed up and it started to feel too crowded, so I left. On the way out the upper pool was starting to look like dumpling soup with about a dozen people in it. That loses appeal quickly, but it's the reality of accessible locations like this one. Still, a good experience. The Cougar reservoir has roads going all the way around and I decide to check it out. Soon I see signs saying 'road not maintained for public use' but decide to press on anyway, hoping that the Mazda's AWD and winter tires would get me through.
And it did, though many times I've wondered if I should turn around. I did straddle a rock that I shouldn't have (sorry, car!). Later I would stop and move oversize boulders from the road rather than risk scraping again. The car and tires did great, with standing water, mud, rocks and fallen tree branches. Then I completed the loop and was back on pavement.
Back at the hotel more soaking in the hot pool, then in the morning a walk around the grounds. There is a main lodge, multiple cabins and RV camping spots. The hot spring source is actually on the other side of the river and is piped to the lodge over the bridge. The bridge is welded from thick steel plate and looks like you could run a locomotive over it.
On the other side of the bridge are more cabins, an old disused electric generator, and a 'Secret Garden'. I got a simple map at the hotel front desk and wondered why the garden is 'secret', when it's right there on the map and not far. That was until I actually tried to find it. Turns out the garden is surrounded by a circular wall with only one entrance. I walked right by it twice before finally finding a way in. So yes, secret.
The garden has an odd post-apocalyptic zen vibe to it. Perfect resonance for my mood of late. It is not something you would expect to find in a place like this, yet there it is. After checking out of the hotel, I head towards Bend. My plan is to try skiing at Hoodoo tomorrow, for the first time in over 20 years, but today I want to head south a bit. Driving past Hoodoo and then Sisters, the scenery continues to change.
South past Bend are the lava fields and Deschutes river, which I stop to explore for a bit. There is a trail a ways into the lava with interesting descriptions and wide open views along the way.
The Deschutes trails are a short drive along an ice-covered road south paralled to 97. There are many trails there, I just walked half mile to the first set of waterfalls and came back. Will hike more in the summer, and hopefully bring the inflatable kayak to paddle some of the lakes and streams, especially in the southern half of the state which I did not visit on this trip. Something to look forward to, but in the meantime this is something to behold. I made sure to pause multiple times and take it all in (which I actually have been doing the whole trip, taking the pictures is just to sum up the experience once I've absorbed it firsthand).
Next hotel is nothing special, just a Best Western in Bend. Clean and a good place to stay for a couple nights. I'm approaching experience overload of sorts, so it's actually good to have this sort of intermission. The next day - skiing. As I've mentioned I haven't done it in over two decades, although back in the day I was a rather dedicated skier of 'advanced intermediate' skill level. Comfortable on a black diamond run, able to survive double black diamonds on occasion. Arriving at Hoodoo the weather is perfect. And this being Thursday, the lift ticket is only $25 and rentals $35 for the day. Not that I can last all day, but this gives total flexibility in timing and zero stress. I start out on the easier, shorter runs but eventually work my way to the very top. Turns out I can still manage a black diamond slope, though not always gracefully. The kind you can't see standing at the top but only once you're actually on it. Almost wiped out once but saved it. No injuries. Tired and happy.
When I set out the trip was open-ended, only planning one or two days at a time. I had no set day to return, and never being much more than 3 hours from home I can decide to call it good anytime. And so today is that time. This has been an awesome experience, but work and responsibilities await so tomorrow I'm heading back. There is so much more of the state left to explore and I'll definitely be doing more of that. The new memories will keep me motivated till then. |