Day 4 - More roaming about Seoul On a friend's suggestion, today's first destination is Bukchon Hanok Village. A subway ride and a bunch of walking. Over here, Google doesn't understand streets as far as walking directions go. It just plots a straight line from the last transit stop to where you need to be. So one has to exercise some judgment/intellingence. Or do a lot more walking. The morning view from the apartment is spectacular as ever.
The subway station from which the walking starts has an underground garden. Cool.
Above ground there are neighborhoods, commercial districts, art districts, sculptures, etc. Overall I get the impression of Seoul as being very art aware, that is reflected in both architecture and public artwork.
To the point, a row of shops selling art supplies.
And a sculpture of a calligraphy brush.
As I walk (limp? foot bothers me, ugh) closer to the village the environment progressively changes. I start seeing people in traditional costumes which at first is puzzling but cool.
This is the time of year when trees are just starting to bloom. Not full on yet, but just enough. Better in some ways, there's tension and potential. You have to use your imagination. You'll notice a pattern of door pictures throughout the blog. They do pay attention to doors here, and put some effort into them. I like it.
Despite it being an obvious tourist attraction, people do seem to actually live here. The streets were never intended for cars, but the residents make do.
The village is up on a hill (defensible) so leaving it there are several options, all downward.
Next destination is the Gyengbokgung palace although I probably won't go inside just yet. One of the ways I choose where to go is just pull up Google maps and see what's on there nearby. This happens to be it. A variety of architecture and art along the way.
Not entirely sure what this one depicts. Just as well, ignorance is bliss.
The grounds outside the palace have a bunch of historical stuff. I just appreciate it as objects, older than I am, and leave it at that. It's an experience.
More people in traditional costumes, including obvious tourists. Leads me to believe you can rent these. The costumes.
At least a partial hint of how the city is kept so clean - there are people walking around and picking up litter. Streets and subways. You don't see them often, but they're there.
Next destination is Ihwa Mural Village. Just because it popped up on Google maps and looked interesting while being nearby.
In the picture below, I wonder if anyone ever sits in the murals' lap? It's definitely arranged to be snapshot bait, what with table placement and all. I take the bait and so the snapshot.
The wings are there for tourist snapshots obviously, but I think cooler empty. Like a 'this could be you' aspiration, rather than 'you posed in a tourist spot' submission. Maybe I'm overthinking it.
Sometimes you don't need a looking glass or rabbit hole to find Wonderland. Just a side alley.
OK, that was cool. My foot doesn't think so but the rest of me does. Majority vote. Onward.
A brief return to the apartment to watch the sunset. My Bumble swipes yielded a few results, including one that suggested I give her AirPods Pro (specific!) as a gift. When I suggested gifts are best exchanged and asked what she'd give me, she unmatched. Her loss. But, one is cool. A machine learning engineer, who coincidentally lived in both Portland and California. I clarify that dinner recommendation and conversation is all I'm after. She suggests a place in Gangnam (yes, like in the song). Sounds good.
It's a traditional Korean barbecue place. I show up a bit early and while the staff speak virtually no English they do communicate that the place is full, sorry. I have no luck conveying that there is a reservation, so I just wait outside for my date. She arrives and we are seated, with what I interpret as apologies towards myself. All part of the experience. She does the ordering, asking if I eat raw meat. Sure. So steak tartar is part of the meal. I had that in Paris several years ago, and it did not agree with me in a profoundly debilitating way. Hopefully this wil be better. I'm feeling adventurous.
The meal is absolutely delicious, and with all pictured above (more than enough for two) plus a bottle of decent wine adding up to about $70 total. Does put the tower champagne in perspective. No wonder they wanted upfront payment for that one. This meal, like most other places, you pay on the way out. The conversation is engaging, food is awesome. And I get more suggestions for places to visit in the next few days. We take the subway, parting where I have to change lines. Definitely an experience meal. And this steak tartar does agree with me. Wins all around. Gangnam style. Half the trip left to go.
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