8/30-9/4/2022 None of the following was planned in any way. Sometimes life gives you opportunities and you can follow through on them, or not. I did. One of the more varied weeks of my life was the result, checking off a number of items off the bucket list in the process.

This particular string of experiences started with a friend's FB post announcing he was setting up for Burning Man. I have been curious about it for some years but never really thought about it seriously. This was like a switch - oh, its NOW? How do I get a ticket? What about vehicle pass? Not easy on this late notice, but where there is a will there is a way. Thank you Kip for the connections.

Of course it already started, and I had scheduled a trackday with Pete at ORP to drive his Ace once again (and to order mine).

No problem, it's on the way. So I loaded the Mazda with camping gear, a new untried e-bike, Zone bars, water, and some jerky. And the kayak, because why not. Gotta be some lakes along the way there or back, somewhere? And if not it's probably not the strangest thing someone brought to BM.

There is a deeper mission to all this - which is to understand, firsthand, what is essential. And what is not. It's a process, these are just steps along the way....

First night camping is at ORP, under the now-familiar starry sky. Didn't take pix tonight but the one below is from the time before. The sky is something else, as is the total silence....

New development was an owl screeching periodically, sounding like a pterodactyl. Yes it was an owl, I saw it upclose. Silent flying (if only it would just shut up), and sizeable with about 4' wingspan. I still got some sleep but it kept waking me up.

Another challenge is that the previously reliable sleeping pad is now deflating in about three hours, so I wake up on hard ground. Paved parking lot in this case, a variety of terrain later.

There is another experiment here - normally I go through several glasses of wine per night, just because I like wiine. I've read that the consequence of this is that when I would normally transition to REM sleep (four hours in), I'd wake up instead. And I do indeed sleep in four-hour blocks. Willingly accepting it as presumed price for my wine indulgence. This week, it's just going to be water and Zone bars. So a good test. So far, still four-hour blocks. But early and not conclusive.

For this track day it was just Pete and I. We both drove his Ace, and I rode the KTM as well. Nice having the track all to myself.

Now that I'm pushing the Ace a bit harder, I get very similar lap times with both machines, dissimilar as they are. Just under 2:20. And breaking in the new set of knee sliders.

The old set is done. Lasted almost two years.

Early afternoon we wrap it up and I head south. The next stop is Summer Lake Hot Springs, a campground about halfway between ORP and Black Rock City. Been meaning to check it out, guess today is the day.


Arriving around seven PM it is still hot so the warm water is not as appealing as it will be once the ambient air cools down a bit.

So I set up the tent, take a few pictures, and borrow an electric outlet on the porch of one of the huts to recharge the laptop while I type this up. Chances are, my access to electrical power will be limited for the next few days.

At ORP, it was completely quiet at night (other than the owl). Here, at sundown the crickets get loud and while they taper off later into the night, there is still continuous chirping at 2 AM.

Time to go check out the pools. From 9 PM to 7 AM they are clothing-optional which is nice as long as it isn't crowded - which it wasn't. Especially at 2 AM. Evening, middle of night, and morning are different experiences. Four-hour sleeping blocks have their benefits.

I experiment with the phone's pro settings, trying to capture the sky with the 30-second exposure. I only partially succeed. This requires way more patience and technical skill than I currently possess. At least now I have a better idea of what it takes.

Sunrise presents a new set of views. I grab a few pix and get under way. Black Rock City is the destination.

There are many alleged lakes along the way, including the Summer Lake itself. On google maps they are blue. In reality, dry and yellow.

The scenery is impressive. I've seen some of it before, but it's still a cool experience.

Surprizingly, there is a sliver of blue ahead - actual water. There is a fence and a gate, but I decide to stop and check it out anyway. Because why not. Turns out it's a private lake that is open to the public, on the condition you respect the land. Fair. Generous, really - I'm grateful to whoever the owner is.

So I pull in, confirm the status with one of the RV campers on site, set up the kayak and go paddling for an hour. This could be the only use I make of the boat on this trip, so better enjoy it. I do. The lake is compact but super cool. It was created by an earthen dam, presumably on a natural creek. There is even a 'beach' on the other side that is perfect for swimming. The water is quite clear although you can smell the vegetation. Definitely swimmable, wouldn't drink it. There is fish.

Refreshed, I pack up the kayak and continue on to the destination. On approach the playa looks harsh with roaming clouds of dust. It's an odd place to (temporarily) set up Nevada's tenth largest city with some 70,000 participants.

Getting all those people in and out in the space of a couple of days is a monumental task. Of course I'm a late arrival and so the roughly 4.5 mile, six (?) lane gate road is mostly empty except for dust. It still takes me 40 minutes to get in. Couple days ago it could take 24 hours.

When the wind kicks up the dust, whiteout conditions result. Just as well that the speed limit is 10mph. At times even that seems a bit fast.

Note the temperature on the dash in the picture above (zoomed in below). The Mazda will likely need a change of air filter on return.

After a ticket scan, an interview and a quick vehicle search by a friendly but thorough naked greeter, I get in, perform the 'initiation ritual' by rolling around in the dust, and pick a spot in the 'campless' open area. The city is laid out logically, using polar coordinates. The Man is at the center, with streets radiating outward being labeled by clock positions, and concentric streets being labeled A to L (they also have names starting with the corresponding letter, but the letter is what matters).

I end up at 5:30 and J. First impression is that Black Rock City is a motorhome/camper park. Powered by hundreds if not thousands of generators, and supplied by whatever has been brought in to last the week.

There are several engineering objectives to this advneture (yes it's a job in a way, nice work when one can find it). In particular, I'm testing out a theory that a Merino wool base layer is effective clothing for a wide range of temperatures and environments. Some choose to go naked here, and I did try that (no pix, lol). Verdict: base layer FTW. Night and day. I will be wearing this one set the entire trip, so its odor resistance will be tested as well.

To be fair, the sun/wind/dust blocking umbrella is a major part of making it all work. This one was previously tested at Bonneville and numerous ORP outings. As pictured below, installed in the backpack, it only works with no wind. Seeing how there was wind I ended up carrying the umbrella by hand but with a bit more prep and effort, a hands-free wind tolerant solution could be devised.

I ended up walking for about six hours, covering over seven miles to the best of my reckoning. It's an interesting place.

The structure below is a pragmatic engineering solution - built from foam insulation board and aluminum duct tape, it's cheap, easy to transport (in a truck anyway), fast to put up, and effective as shelter from temperature variations and wind. Might be a bit claustrophobic inside.

Along the way I connect with Kip and Bethany, who are regular Burners and go all in with costumes they make themselves. Have to hand it to them, they do look good!

Out on the open playa is where the art installations are. There is great variety, a lot of creativity and effort went into each one. Later in the day, someone camping across the street from me asked what was the coolest thing I saw. Without hesitation, my reply was 'the whiteout'. It obscures everything except what's immediately in front of you, and allows you to see just that, and fully appreciate it. One thing at a time. This may or may not make sense to some.

Sculpture wise, the one below is probably my favorite (though there are many cool ones). It's made of mesh and is permeable to light and wind. It appears solid, but isn't.

You can see how the whiteout helps to focus on just the thing in front of you. It also makes the whole scene all the more surreal.

The two images below in particular illustrate the whiteout effect. Downside, the dust gets in everywhere and my skin doesn't like it.

The place is large. It is possible to hop onto 'mutant vehicles' and see where they take you, but I am weird in choosing to choose my destinations so I keep walking. It's a lot of walking.

Some of the vehicles are really cool tho.

Daytime walk completed, I get back to the dust-encrusted Mazda and set up the tent. Then I set up the e-bike. Never tried it before, and I already know that the right pedal has a manufacturing defect (Tristan discovered that before I left). Range, peformance/feel, ability to traverse the rough and dusty playa are all unknown. We'll just have to see.

One frustrating thing is that the bike has a light, but I can't, for the life of me, figure out how to turn it on. And of course I left the manual back home. It should be intuitive. There is a horn button, but no light switch that I can find. I will either be vindicated or embarrassed later. For now, I'm setting off into the dusk with no light. Plenty of other lit things around me, litreally and otherwise. EDIT post-trip - Tristan googled it, you press and hold the middle button to turn on the light. There is no label or any indication that it works that way. Just have to RTFM. And I did try to press and hold the various buttons, alone and in combination, but apparently not long enough. In my book, poor UI design for a safety-related item. Even just putting a 'light' icon on the button would have helped.

The playa transforms as the darkness falls.

As I traverse the back alleys of the city, I see the inner workings including mutant vehicle maintenance, the various camps, and the people moving about by various means.

The whole thing runs on generators. There are a few solar panels here and there, mostly to power the artwork lights on the playa. How do you set up a city of 70K people in a couple days, in the middle of the desert? You burn a lot of diesel and gas, and haul in a lot of stuff. When the wind dies down the air quality plummets to third-world capital levels. You can almost chew the air sometimes. But, most of the time there's wind.

I cover over ten miles on the bike, although with all the sand-like dust and washboard terrain the battery drains to one bar in about three miles. So I put it into no-assist mode, just to have the odometer working, and pedal the old fashioned way. Have to say, while the assist is available, it is very nice. And yes the pedal breaks off but I make do regardless.

Burning Man is a non-stop party. Even at four AM (my four-hour sleep pattern still on), the playa is a lit up, moving, thundering expanse. There are many sites set up with music but from afar all you get is the bass, and the effect is continuous rolling thunder and brilliant lights. It's a sight to behold. Can't really convey it in a picture, but witnessing it is a unique experience. A very stark contrast to the infinite starry sky and silent solitude at ORP earlier.

If you are into parties and actively participate, this is Mecca. But I never have been, and my role has always been one of observer rather than participant. The fact that I elected to only consume the food and water I brought puts all the freely available substances off limits, by choice. I'm a sober man at a party. Because this is what I want.

This is nothing new, I've known this about myself for decades but this is good reminder and opportunity for introspection.

My original plan was to stay at least until the burn of the Man Saturday night. It's Thursday morning and I somewhat abruptly come to the conclusion that I've observed all I want to observe. Totally worthwhile as an experience, an intense and informative 24 hours. I've come, I've seen. The 'strobe light travel' strobe has flashed. Now I want to move on. The fact that getting out at the end would be challenging seals the decision - there are other things I want to experience.


Being this early on, I just drive out. No waiting.

I do have a kayak in the car. And Lake Tahoe is only 2 hours south. I've been meaning to visit but never could make the time. No better time than now. I plot a course to Sand Harbor, a good place to launch and it looks pretty in pictures. It does not disappoint - the lake is awesome! Compared to the dust and heat I've come from, paddling and swinning in crystal clear water is a welcome contrast. And the closest thing to a shower I've had in days.

Five hours on the water including swim stops at several beaches. A good workout and a deeply satisfying day. Time to head back north, and in keeping with the camping requirement I google 'campground'. A highly rated one pops up less than an hour away, at Washoe Lake. Perfect.


It is now Friday. Where to next? I've always wanted to check out Klamath Falls, but even more so Crater Lake. I've lived in Oregon for over twenty years and never visited. No better time than now. Klamath Falls itself is a quaint town but doesn't particularly stand out. There is a cool old locomotive in the small waterfront park.

Continuing north to Crater Lake, the Klamath lake is scenic. A flock of what appears to be pelicans is crowding a small island.

Arriving at Crater Lake, the scenery is impressive. I end up driving all the way around the rim, stopping often to take in the views. And some photos.

The only boats allowed on the lake are official research vessels and I think there is a tour boat also. I spot a couple moored below one of the overlooks on the rim road.

So, a great experience and another item off the bucket list. What next? In staying with volcanic theme I google 'hot springs near me'. Paulina lake springs come up and I remember reading about it couple years ago and wanting to check it out. No better time than now. There is also a campground, but this being a holiday weekend I don't have very high hopes of finding an open site. Still, worth a try.

Arriving at the campground I find exacly one site, out of 60+, that isn't occupied or reserved. One is all I need. The lake is very scenic at night. I will kayak tomorrow.

Still sleeping in four-hour blocks. That actually works out because that's when I need to reinflate the sleeping pad. By now guessing it's not the wine, it's just how I function.


Saturday morning is the coldest of the trip, with the car showing 48F (felt like mid-forties in the tent). I put on a jacket and a hat while I inflate the kayak. Then the sun is up and the jacket can come off. There is fog and some smoke from a faraway wildfire. It is quiet and peaceful.

The hot spring is on the opposite side of the lake. There are hiking trails but paddling in is more fun. Takes about two hours following the shore. The spring pools are on the beach right next to the lake, and the lake covers them in winter. The pools are small and shallow, only about six inches deep. I end up hand-digging a small trench into the hottest one so I can actually soak in it.

Then continuing on the rest of the way around the lake, a total of a bit over four hours on the water.

Nearing the campground, I notice an empty water bottle floating on the lake. Intending to do my part in cleanup I pick it up, only to realize that it's a makeshift buoy for a crawdad trap. There are several others nearby. I leave it in place and move on.

After packing away the kayak, I reflect on the trip and the wide range of experiences I accumulated in only a few days. Nothing went as planned, yet long-delayed plans were fulfilled. Time to head home. On the way back I do end up visiting a friend in Eugene, marking the trip's conclusion with some good wine and good company. There will be more trips and experiences soon.